Overview
The New Expressionist is a segment led by individualism, they like to stand out, have their own unique sense of style that is ‘typically them’ and find clothes a naturally fun way to express their artistic selves and personalities. More eccentric than other segments, they playfully mix and match looks and references.
As a segment, they are the most eclectic: blending, borrowing and building upon iconic looks to create an even more expressive outfit. Looking at them, you would definitely comment, ‘I love your style’, rather than, ‘You’re so fashionable’. Their style is their own and, in turn, they own it [unapologetically].
Interestingly, if a fashion trend does indeed pique their interest, they may also buy into it, yet will always give the trend a twist. Thrift and vintage also help them stand out in one-off pieces that others can’t emulate or copy.
As a consumer, they take from various looks, eras and styles with ease and always with joy and curiosity, crafting looks and products to their artistic will. The New Expressionist is a segment led by individualism, they like to stand out, have their own unique sense of style that is ‘typically them’ and find clothes a naturally fun way to express their artistic selves and personalities. More eccentric than other segments, they playfully mix and match looks and references, enjoying the freedom that clothes can give them.
Sitting in the style segment, they may buffer up to the style segments either side of them, for instance, enjoying and sharing elements of streetwear with the Streetwear Sophisticate and incorporating timeless staples into their closets like our Refined Achiever. This sense of classicism, however, is always built upon with unique, one off and rare items - often personalized - to give them their own, striking, individual look. As a segment, they are the most eclectic: blending, borrowing and building upon iconic looks to create an even more expressive outfit. Looking at them, you would definitely comment, ‘I love your style’, rather than, ‘You’re so fashionable’. Their style is their own and, in turn, they own it [unapologetically].
Interestingly, if a fashion trend does indeed pique their interest, they may also buy into it, yet will always give the trend a twist. Vintage, obviously, is of high interest to them; they can lean into the different eras that they love and admire through product. Thrift and vintage also help them stand out in one-off pieces that others can’t emulate or copy.
As a consumer, they take from various looks, eras and styles with ease and always with joy and curiosity, crafting looks and products to their artistic will.
"I would describe my style as eccentric, it depends on whatever I want to blend with that day. Not blending into my surroundings but blending into whatever energy I feel. I’m inspired by so many things in the world that sometimes I want to embody different things each day. I jump from style to style, mood to mood. Love a good wig, I just like to embody the mood and whatever I feel in the day."
Syd, 29, Brooklyn, NY, New Expressionist
"Ironically, describing my style is actually pretty simple for me. I am entirely post-prep vintage, military/boy-scout, moonlighting as a monk. You’ll see me in designer workwear from Japan or Americana with some fly sneakers and a Dad hat. When I get dressed, I’m thinking: Who are the other people rocking this style? What does it mean to express myself this way? What am I 'saying' with this look?"
Maceo, 35, Detroit, MI, New Expressionist
"Whatever I wear is an extension of me and my mood that day. If I leave the house and I've not been genuine in my dressing process I will feel it all day; like a small rock in your shoe that you just can't get to. When I nail an outfit to a mood, it's instantly an elevator. I know I look good and my mood lifts with it. I don’t wear trends as I have learnt the importance of building my own visual narrative and that’s what I do with my look."
Samy, 35, Brooklyn, NY, New Expressionist
"I absolutely have fun with my clothing, if it’s not fun it’s not worth a f**k. I’m also a (hate the word) tweaker, I love taking the basic and banal, an empty pallet, and making a little modification to make it 'you', making that one piece, my piece. I learnt how to use a sewing machine, I’ll see something on someone, think 'I like that', and then make it my own. I’m wearing an old Banana Republic blazer actually, I let the hems go and dyed it bright pink!"
Giovanni, 63, Los Angeles, CA, New Expressionist
"I f**king love clothing, shoes, accessories, playing around with styles. I mean, I’ve been actively and unintentionally cultivating my style since age 5, even when that was a free cap from a milk company and a pair of pink fake Ray-Bans. I build all my outfits holistically as I get dressed, while visualizing the final look and I rarely-to-never change anything once it’s on. If anything, I add."
Monty, 35, Brooklyn, NY, New Expressionist
"The people that know me very well would say that I am arguably one of the most stylish people they know (when I try). But I have been told I am inconsistent. This is because I am not afraid to take risks, which means every outfit is not going to be a hit. What I lose in consistency, I make up for my constant progress. When I find myself in an outfit that doesn’t work, it’s a lesson. So my style is increasingly expansive while continuing to hold true to a core."
Maceo, 35, Detroit, MI, New Expressionist
Inspiration
Similar to the Refined Achiever, the New Expressionist tends not to get inspiration from celebrities and those in the public eye. Since their style is eclectic, so too are their inspirational references. If they do name famous people, they also tend to be somewhat historical in context.
Names may be from the worlds of art, culture or music; we hear of artists Basquiat, David Hockney and Monica Canilao, fashion icon Lamy [shared with the Refined Achiever], culture queen Patti Smith, musicians like Andre 3000 and The Migos and even the eccentric, dishevelled Ronnie Wood and Rod Stewart.
If there’s one pattern to take from their inspiration, it’s that there is no pattern. It can come from anywhere and everywhere and this syncs up perfectly with the approach and style of the New Expressionist.
"In terms of who inspired me, I’d say my Mom [Dixie! One of our Refined Achievers], my grandparents, and I’m more inspired by eras than people. I love Prince, Janet Jackson etc. The eighties and nighties were really big for these people so I loved them at that time, Chaka Khan. I love what they represented. I’m not really influenced by people in the public eye."
Syd, 29, Brooklyn, NY, New Expressionist
"I’m inspired by Old Italian Mobster films - their class is impeccable. Mexican culture, architecture and use of material.Different eras, definitely, from the '20s to the boldness of the '80s. Anything to do with the '60s (art, movies, clothing, musicians, photographs). I don’t know if there’s many people that inspire me, outside of my grandparents, perhaps Jeff Goldblum? He’s quite the character, loves a dandy look, loves a classic look but with a bit of pizzazz. I rate that."
Kristian, 25, Los Angeles, CA, New Expressionist
"Hmm, what inspires me? James Dean, Tee-shirts, the Korean Dance scene for proportions. Construction workers. Andre 3000, Tyler, The Creator, my brother - he’s giving me all kinds of new vocabulary as far as proportion and texture goes when it comes to clothes. Nigel Cabourn. He has a timeless style that works for an old guy but is clearly elevated Osh Kosh Gosh! I love it."
Maceo, 35, Detroit, MI, New Expressionist
"Painter David Hockney in his 20s , could easily be the cute gender questioning queer barista making your coffee today. Michele Lamy scares the s**t out of me but you can't argue that the woman has a well put together visual language. Jemima Kirke either as herself or as Jessa in Girls. Jessa shows her emotions through the clothes she wears, not only as armor, but as an aura that she can control and at times hide behind."
Samy, 35, Brooklyn, NY, New Expressionist
Their Interests
When it comes to talking to the New Expressionists about their interests, the word ‘art’ comes up over and over again, whether it’s learning about it, doing it, studying it, or visiting it - as artists themselves, it plays a big role in their lives.
And artists they are, whether singers and dancers, [like Syd], tattoo artists [like Samy] or TikTok celebrities like Giovanni, art plays a distinct and important role across their careers and their interests.
Interestingly, since they are consumers that are driven by curiosity and an incessant need to know more, learning about different cultures and different periods of history, as well as traveling and learning new languages also matter.
While typically extroverted, as you can imagine, more introverted interests [and centralizing interests] are also part of their matrix, An energetic segment, finding ways to decompress is important, which is why fitness - as a form of meditation - also matters.
"I really just love being inspired, and I love collecting, spending time digesting everything that inspires me, for instance, seeing how magical the constant output of art is in this world astonishes me. People are magical and so creative and it’s quite the wonder! Writing has always been cathartic for me and storytelling is a part of how I speak and digest the world around me."
Kristian, 25, Los Angeles, CA, New Expressionist
"I’m interested in music, art, dancing, food, culture and philosophy. I’ve played music my whole life so I am always using it as a reference for my style, almost turning the sound into a look that I can wear. I’m very much connected to music, but it is great for being social and for health so it’s a win, win, win. I’m also a big fan of really deep conversations, getting lost in thought, or a deep read."
Maceo, 35, Detroit, MI, New Expressionist
"My life revolves around art. I'm a professional artist, I paint, I take photographs, I make sculptures and I'm never not drawing. If I had to list my interests, I’d say: Art, Art History, Artists, Muses, Movements and Moments in Art History, painting, photography, sculpture, drawing, music, traveling, reading magazines, cooking. That’s enough, right?"
Samy, 35, Brooklyn, NY, New Expressionist
"I love dancing, singing, history, spirituality, anthropology and learning about different cultures. People fascinate me and understanding different cultures is something I love spending time doing. Because I love singing and dancing so much, I also love to learn about the musical and dance aspects of these different cultures too. It’s all so fascinating."
Syd, 29, Brooklyn, NY, New Expressionist
Where They Buy
The New Expressionist tends to lean into vintage/thrift stores as well as flea markets the most, again because they lend themselves well to the eclecticism, bygone eras and unique/rare style they’re seeking.
However, they also lean into the spaces of the Streetwear Sophisticate and Refined Achiever, so places like Uniqlo, Opening Ceremony and Dover Street Market may also be part of their hunting grounds.
Always looking for places to get those truly special and often artistic pieces that the New Expressionist craves, they will buy from a selection of stores as eclectic as their style.
Timeless brands, such as Dr Martens, may also get a mention since these are brands they are happy to align themselves with. However, it is the second-hand pieces they enjoy playing with the most, buying them to tweak and adapt to their style.
"My great love is thrifting. Markets specifically. I honestly feel like you can learn a lot about a place's culture from the local thrift market. The things people throw away or try to sell are things they once brought and probably really enjoyed for a time until they didn't. I like walking the line between someone else's experience and my own. I also love Vestiaire, I know it’s vintage but I’ve bought some new items too. I love their special, up-cycled pieces."
Samy, 35, Brooklyn, NY, New Expressionist
"I love Goodwill, Salvation Army, Dr Martens… I mean, I like any thrift shop, they’re cheap and have that one of a kind feel. Mashood in Brooklyn, it’s so good, but it’s expensive. Their stuff is hot! Cool prints. Cool colours. Estate sales, I just got into that. There are a lot in the south. I hardly ever go into stores."
Syd, 29, Brooklyn, NY, New Expressionist
Banana Republic & The New Expressionist
They don’t buy from us, but could if we offered the basic, Uniqlo-type staples that they would be attracted by. Since they also have classics within their base wardrobe, their attention can be caught.
Politically minded and often activists, the New Expressionist will appreciate products that have sustainability baked into them and any collaboration that lifts up the community. This is not to say it will also be bought, yet as a consumer segment, they are social with a wide range of friends, they will do our story-telling for us.
Vintage ranges, naturally, will appeal to the New Expressionist, as well as ways in which they can personalize and adapt items to their own style.
Importantly, it is by getting it right with the Streetwear Sophisticate and Refined Achiever that we will catch the attention of the New Expressionist.
Rubbing shoulders with the Streetwear Sophisticate and Refined Achiever, it is no surprise that their thoughts and feelings on the brand are similar.They don’t buy from us, but could if we offered the basic, Uniqlo-type staples that the Streetwear Sophisticate would be attracted by. Since they also have classics within their base wardrobe, their attention can also be caught by the iconic pieces the Refined Achiever demands.
Politically minded and often activists, the New Expressionist will appreciate products that have sustainability baked into them [again, similar to the other style segments] and any collaboration that lifts up the community, supporting diversity and inclusivity, will be applauded. This is not to say it will also be bought, yet as a consumer segment, they are social with a wide range of friends, they will do our story-telling for us.
Vintage ranges, naturally, will appeal to the New Expressionist, as well as ways in which they can personalize and adapt items to their own style.
Importantly, it is by getting it right with the Streetwear Sophisticate and Refined Achiever that we will catch the attention of the New Expressionist.
Open Letter from New Expressionist
Dear Banana Republic,
I grew up thinking that you were the pinnacle of cool. There wasn’t even a BR in my local mall, so we would have to check out the stuff when we went out of town. This was all when I was a teenager though. I loved the knitted sweaters and the desert boot was always something I thought of as a BR exclusive.
My style changed, I learned about more brands, and within that process my ideal place to get a raincoat moved from Banana Republic to London Fog. I think Ralph Lauren came back with more innovation and a little risk in the early to mid-2000s and I didn’t see the same kind of flair from BR so I sort of moved on.
I still go to the stores in the mall when I am looking for some business casual things, but I am shopping online a lot more than in retail and I think that has opened me up to stores that are outside of my same area. I am not getting BR ads, so I am not up to the latest things that are happening. There is, however, a great place in my mind for what the brand means and I am still curious about the looks.
When I read GQ or other menswear blogs, there is always an affordable version of a very expensive staple that is offered by Banana Republic which is great, but again with risk, I am not seeing the colors or textiles that the other brands are pulling so I see it as a brand where I can reliably find black dress pants, and not a place where I am going to get a statement piece.
That is not bad, I think my go-to business casual spot will continue to be BR but of course J Crew , Vince, COS, and others have started to edge into that zone. I don’t think I am likely to say “I got this at Banana Republic” with any kind of pride because it’s not exactly seen as fashion forward, and yet it is not seen as heritage so I struggle with the positioning a bit.
I know we haven’t talked in a while, Banana Republic, but we have some great memories, call me anytime.
Maceo, 35, Detroit, MI, New Expressionist
If you want to read more Open Letters from our respondents, click here.
