Style & Sustainability

Here, we discuss the integration of style and sustainability and what that means for the respondents, and what it means for Banana Republic.

Topic Overview:

The closer the segment is to fashion, the less importance they put on sustainability.
Small batch buying, vintage and re-crafting product yourself all play a role in sustainability.
The style segments can walk away from fast fashion as it does not align with their principles.
People are frustrated that they have to sacrifice style and/or comfort to be more sustainable.
Don’t greenwash.

Within the research, we spoke to our three style segments [the Streetwear Sophisticate, New Expressionist and Refined Achiever] about sustainability; how it played into their purchase, what their frustrations were and the lengths they go to when it comes to being environmentally friendly.

While the Streetwear Sophisticate reads as the least-involved of these style segments, this tends to be because there is still an element of ‘fashion’ left in their remit, for instance, 43-year-old Streetwear Sophisticate Allister talks about buying Burberry who [he thinks] burn old stock. For them, their demands around style x sustainability aren’t being met yet, even if demand is growing. Since we know that the Streetwear Sophisticate tends to be the closest to the fashion segments, however, it still remains important that we tell and sell our stories through them; they validate our initiatives within the realm of style and fashion for the Polished Professional and Budget Fashionista.

Across the Style Segments, we see that small-batch buying along with vintage play a critical part in being sustainable. Vintage, for them, is a form of recycling, bringing a second life to old clothes. Streetwear Sophisticate Pris, whose mother was a seamstress, also has a ‘make do and mend’ element to her thinking. Taking it to the next level, 63-year-old New Expressionist Giovanni purposefully takes clothes and re-imagines them, bringing a second expression and life to pieces he finds in Goodwill or elsewhere.

Fixed in their personal style and expression, the New Expressionist and Refined Achiever are able to ‘hold on to things’ more than most, thereby confidently claiming an element of sustainability to their style. Arguably looking into the specifics of products more than most, they’re checking the tags and manufacture of where their items come from. Like the Streetwear Sophisticate, they’re also aware and interested in the stories behind their clothes.

As style segments, their consumption of fast-fashion is at a minimum, although some do admit they might have leaned into places like Zara for various [often ‘staple'] reasons before. However, they tend to have made an active decision to stop buying at those stores simply because they have the confidence to be able to walk away from them.

What we do find is that the Refined Achiever is in a place where they can take sustainability to another level, particularly when we understand [read: admit] that it still tends to cost more to buy eco-aware than otherwise and this is the segment that can afford that. As we see with Dixie, for instance, she is taking the consideration of manufacturing, story-telling and even fabric to a whole other level, while Alicia talks about visiting silk mills [in her career capacity] and how that has affected her purchasing priorities. For the other style segments, price is still very much an issue and an obstacle overall.

Across our segments [and across any research PSEUDO tends to do in this area], there are huge frustrations around the actual aesthetics of sustainability within design, for brands tend to feel the product has to look natural for others to trust it is sustainable. For instance, Streetwear Sophisticates will applaud adidas for their sneaker with Parley that used recycled ocean plastic, yet won’t wear it because adidas made it look like an ocean. This feels outdated in this day and age and is something brands have to move on from. A black tee-shirt can [and should] be sustainable, sneakers, pants, blazers - all can be sustainable - their design and look just doesn’t need to smack of it.

Finally, from a marketing point of view, we have to understand that there is an element of fatigue setting in with consumers [across the world, in fact] when it comes to greenwashing product. In many ways, this is the most dangerous thing the industry can do. No consumer is asking brands to be perfect - they know we’re still figuring it out together. In this sense, transparency is trust; they would rather we admit where we could do better than say we’re doing the best. An honest and humble approach to how the brand is tackling climate change and environmental concerns is a must.

Reference Quotes

"I would say sustainability does play a little bit into my purchases, I studied fashion in college and work in fashion, so I know what I’m buying. I know if I’m looking for something specific, to get that look, I’m pretty sure it’s not sustainable. I’m realistic and realize not everything is going to be sustainable. I’m 50/50, I’m someone that shops everywhere and knows the story behind most things. How much background do we all have anyway? A brand can seem sustainable but be using the same factory sometimes that the unsustainable brands are using."

Dekota, 33, Jersey City, NJ, Streetwear Sophisticate

"It should play a bigger part, but unfortunately I’m not that driven by it. I’m moderately mindful about it but it wouldn’t necessarily stop me from buying something, not yet anyway. "

Santana, 28, San Francisco, CA, Streetwear Sophisticate

"I care in theory – but I don't do anything to support the environment other than recycle and don't litter – which is the basic minimum. I don't buy a lot of clothing – but I have a lot of clothing. I guess I do have some sort of internal 'stop buying stuff just to buy stuff' voice – but I don't think that is rooted in true sustainability ethos. I mean, Burberry burns and destroys stuff that doesn't sell thru. I think that is wasteful. But I still buy the brand."

Allister, 43, Toronto, ON, Streetwear Sophisticate

"Buying mostly vintage is everything I consider. Fast Fashion is killing the world! The more large companies that can practice sustainability the merrier."

Kristian, 25, Los Angeles, CA, New Expressionist

"Sustainability definitely plays into my purchase decisions; it's why I abstain from purchasing from many major retailers. I like small batch, upcycled collections and vintage for this reason."

Alex, 31, Brooklyn, NY, Streetwear Sophisticate

"I found three jackets from Banana Republic in the Goodwill downstairs, I’m going to repurpose the jackets at my studio."

Giovanni, 63, Los Angeles, CA, New Expressionist

"I make sure I really like those pieces and know I’ll wear them... It sounds awful but there are other things I care about."

Dekota, 33, Jersey City, NJ, Streetwear Sophisticate

"I wear things for twenty years, in fact, my style hasn’t changed in twenty years - for me, that is naturally sustainable. I buy things I love, that I know will suit me, and I wear them and wear them and wear them."

Iris, 52, Richmond, VA, Refined Achiever

"I still have and wear pieces I’ve owned for twenty years. Without realizing it, people who value style over fashion and trends are practicing sustainability because items are reused season after season, year after year. This limits the constant need for more."

Dixie, 49, Chesterbrook, PA, Refined Achiever

"Sustainability is hard to find, I do like Uniqlo who are actively trying to do things in this area and I stopped shopping at H&M and Zara. I don’t want to shop at a company that makes too many clothes and underpays their staff."

Giovanni, 63, Los Angeles, CA, New Expressionist

"I mix and match. If I am buying something mass-produced, it is a staple or a compliment piece. There are a lot of things you can find almost at 5 different stores but I also freely pass on and receive hand-me-downs so I am not usually worried about what to do with something when I am over it."

Maceo, 35, Detroit, MI, New Expressionist

"My main frustration with fast fashion is the cycle, like slow that s**t all the way down. Corporations don’t take enough responsibility for the problem they help to create. One way is to slow the cycle of production down. We can really do one season of clothes, one collection every few years. Especially given climate change."

Lex, 33, Los Angeles, CA, Streetwear Sophisticate

"I would say sustainability plays a big role for me because I purchase mostly natural products only. I have been to silk mills in Vietnam, Thailand and Laos and have seen how linen and cashmere are made so I prefer those items in my home as well as in the clothes that I wear."

Alicia, 52, Laguna Beach, CA, Refined Achiever

"I’m also frustrated with the price points of these f**king GMO cotton tee shirts, f**k. Also I want there to be equitable wages and safe conditions for the factory workers in these corporations."

Lex, 33, Los Angeles, CA, Streetwear Sophisticate

"Though it’s a nascent market, it’s certainly growing as consumers demand better practices from brands. The major frustration is with pricing. They are more expensive than fast fashion and as a result are less accessible to lower income consumers, who are usually the people of color/minority communities."

Dixie, 49, Chesterbrook, PA, Refined Achiever

"It’s either recycled material or hemp or whatever it may be, plastic bottles to make puffer jackets. Whatever they’re designing it looks so terrible still, and I don’t know what’s going on with it. I’m totally down to buy sustainable products but what they design with it looks so hideous at the moment so I refuse. I think companies could do more."

Santana, 28, San Francisco, CA, Streetwear Sophisticate

"Yes, I get it adidas, you made a sneaker out of ocean plastic, that’s amazing, I love it. Now - why does it have to actually look like it was made out of ocean plastic? Why couldn’t it just be a dope shoe?"

Dekota, 33, Jersey City, NJ, Streetwear Sophisticate

"I don’t think much about sustainable apparel. I know that price is a concern, but I think that it is a spectrum where absolutely no planet/people considerations are being made, to a point where you are looking at a handmade hemp shirt that is ugly, expensive, and uncomfortable. I think there is a middle ground."

Maceo, 35, Detroit, MI, New Expressionist

"Sustainability is a confusing area. I stay away from big statements and prefer brands that can break it down for me and speak in my language. I work a bit in this area… it’s confusing for people and for every step forward, someone else says it is a step back. Let’s just be real with each other and celebrate those that are trying to move these big issues forward. If brands are not even thinking about it then I would start to steer away over the next few years. Everyone has to take responsibility."

Simon, 48, Portland, OR, Refined Achiever

"I think the thing that frustrates me about it is a lot of brands are using it as a gimmick to sell clothes. Levis had an ad with a youth group talking about how we should buy sustainable etc and then the message at the end was ‘BUY LEVIS’ and I didn’t like that. Uniqlo will mention how they’re using recycled materials, but it’s not enough, change the way you do business."

Priscilla, 42, Brooklyn, NY, Streetwear Sophisticate

"Most brands are using upcycling and sustainable design as a marketing tactic as a means to make more money and gain more market share which in a way, if you truly think about it, makes those collections the ultimate oxymoron as they will continue to run their factories harder and faster to keep up with demand sucking the energy out of the earth while releasing toxins. Someone needs to break this s**t down for everyone at scale, what it is and how it actually works. It is very complicated and I am barely scratching the surface with my nascent knowledge."

Monty, 35, Brooklyn, NY, New Expressionist

"The definition of sustainability in a lot of these brands is maybe a little muddy to define. Like, okay, let's buy these 70% (no idea) “sustainable” Nikes - that's not perfect, sure, but they are cute... I know that they are not necessarily or historically an ethical company but they are really comfy. So I buy the shoes then they come wrapped in a non-recycled box and a purpose built plastic bag. How much are they considering when making upcycled items? Why don't they consider the buying process holistically as one thing? That would be cool to see in the future."

Samy, 35, Brooklyn, NY, New Expressionist

"The market could focus a lot more on sourcing from natural materials, even if a company is doing something sustainably, there is always seemingly a hole in how they get their materials."

Kristian, 25, Los Angeles, CA, New Expressionist

"I feel that the fashion industry is producing too much and too much is going to waste. You can see the large amounts of items on sales racks. So sad that during the pandemic so many luxury brand items were destroyed because they chose not to sell them at a discounted rate or they went out of business because they didn’t have the funds to produce large clothing lines. I think consumers reevaluated their spending over the pandemic. Casual and wearable clothing is now preferred and tennis shoes over fine imported leathers. Cutbacks on overproduction and the use of only natural fibers is ideal."

Alicia, 52, Laguna Beach, CA, Refined Achiever